1. Operating Procedures:

(1) Before starting, check all attachments and instruments, and ensure all connections are tight.

(2) Remove the plug from the oil outlet of the cooler (provided by the user), then slowly open the inlet oil valve (the outlet valve should be closed at this time). When oil overflows, close the inlet oil valve and replace the plug.

(3) Open the air vent valve on the cooler's piping. At this point, both water and oil should be in a static state. After heat exchange, the temperature difference will gradually decrease. (4) When the water temperature rises by 5-10°C, open the discharge valves for the cooling water and oil, and then gradually open the inlet valves for the cooling water and oil to ensure both are flowing. Adjust the flow rate of the cooling water to maintain the oil outlet temperature at the normal operating level.

(4) When the cooler stops working due to a fault or for maintenance, first close the inlet valves for the oil and cooling water, then close the discharge valves for the oil and cooling water. Finally, remove the plugs from the water and oil discharge ports to drain all water and oil from the cooler.

2. Precautions:

(1) When starting the cooler, avoid rapidly opening the inlet water valve. A large amount of cooling water passing through the cooler can form a poorly conductive "overcooling layer" on the surface of the heat exchanger tubes, which can reduce cooling efficiency even if the water flow is increased later.

(2) If electrochemical corrosion occurs on the water side, you can install zinc anodes in the designated positions (reserved holes) on the inlet and outlet water caps to prevent electrochemical corrosion.

(3) Cooling water should typically be purified fresh water. If river water is used, a filter should be installed at the inlet.

(4) To improve heat exchange performance and prevent scale formation, the cooling water temperature should be as low as possible, and the water flow rate should be high.

(5) The oil-side pressure of the cooler should be greater than the water-side pressure.

(6) In cold seasons, when the cooler is not in use, all water must be drained to prevent freezing and cracking.

Over time, as the cooler operates, the inner surfaces of the tubes gradually accumulate scale, reducing heat exchange efficiency to the point where it no longer meets cooling requirements. At this stage, the cooler must be shut down for cleaning. The cleaning cycle depends on the water quality, and generally, an internal inspection and cleaning should be performed every 5-10 months. The methods are as follows:

1. Water Side Cleaning:

Use a hose to flush the front cover, back cover, and inner surfaces of the heat exchanger tubes with clean water at high speed. Simultaneously, use a cleaning brush to scrub. After washing, blow dry with compressed air.

2. Oil Side Cleaning:

(1) Rinse with trichloroethylene solution, allowing the cleaning solution to circulate within the cooler. The solution pressure should not exceed 0.6 MPa, and the flow direction of the solution should preferably be opposite to the oil flow direction. The cleaning duration depends on the degree of contamination. Afterward, flush the cooler with clean water until the outflow is clear.

(2) Use the soaking method by filling the cooler with the cleaning solution. After 15-20 minutes, check the color of the solution. If it is very dirty, replace it with new solution and soak again until the surfaces are clean. Then rinse with clean water. (If using carbon tetrachloride for cleaning, ensure good ventilation to avoid poisoning.)

(3) After cleaning, perform a hydraulic test, or alternatively, a pneumatic test at 0.7 MPa, before reinstalling the cooler in the system.